Onomichi is one of those places in Japan that’s hard to judge from a list of attractions alone. There aren’t many major sights, and getting there takes a little more effort than visiting somewhere like Hiroshima or Tokyo. But Onomichi has a completely different atmosphere, with narrow hillside streets, old temples, tons of cats, waterfront views, and is also the gateway to the famous Shimanami Kaido cycling route. After visiting, here’s what we think makes Onomichi worth visiting, when we don’t think it is, and what we thought of our experience with the famous Shimanami Kaido.

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Best Things to Do in Onomichi

As mentioned before, Onomichi isn’t a place you go to tick off several highlight temples and attractions. Instead, its main draw is the peaceful waterfront atmosphere and the famous Shimanami Kaido cycling route. Here are some of the main experiences to enjoy while visiting Onomichi:

Cat Alley and Temple Walk

One of the best ways to experience Onomichi is simply to wander its narrow streets and hillside paths. The Temple Walk winds through the old part of town, connecting several small temples along the way, while Cat Alley is known for the many cats that roam the area. It takes around 30 minutes to walk up to Senkouji Temple, and along the way, be sure to stop at UN! for their famous Sweet potato crème brûlée! It was delicious!

Senkouji Temple

At the summit of Onomichi, you’ll reach Senkouji Temple, which offers some of the best views over the city and Seto Inland Sea. From here, you can also see the bridges that connect the different islands as part of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route. What we enjoyed most, though, was taking in the peaceful views from the Senkoji Peak Observatory, a really unique architectural structure perched at the summit.

Enjoy the Waterfront

Onomichi’s waterfront is very charming. Although there aren’t many shops, it’s a pleasant place to stroll, grab a coffee, and watch the boats go by.

Cycling the Shimanami Kaido

For most travelers, the biggest reason to visit Onomichi is its access to the Shimanami Kaido. This famous cycling route crosses six islands between Onomichi and Imabari, with bridges, coastal roads, and views across the Seto Inland Sea along the way. Even if you aren’t a serious cyclist, which we aren’t, you don’t necessarily need to complete the entire route to enjoy it. You can also rent an E-assisted bike to make the route easier. We’ll cover whether the Shimanami Kaido is worth cycling in more detail below.

Onomichi U2

Based in a converted warehouse along the waterfront, Onomichi U2 is a stylish complex built around a love of cycling and travel. You’ll find a hotel, restaurants, cafes, shops, and bike facilities. We personally didn’t get to explore it, but it seems to be a popular stop for people cycling the Shimanami Kaido.

Day Trip to Bunny Island (Okunoshima) and Takehara

Onomichi is also a convenient base for exploring nearby destinations if you have extra time. Reachable by ferry, Okunoshima, better known as Bunny Island, is home to hundreds of free-roaming rabbits. Another option is Takehara, known as little Kyoto, with a beautifully preserved historic district and traditional streets.

Is the Shimanami Kaido Worth it?

Since the Shimanami Kaido is the main draw for most travelers to Onomichi, we wanted to share details about the cycling route and our experience on it. This way, you can decide if it is right for you.

What the Shimanami Kaido Actually Is

The Shimanami Kaido is a famous 70 km cycling route in Japan that connects six islands across the Seto Inland Sea. It’s known for its coastal views, where you can cycle across impressive bridges and pass through small towns and local villages along the route.

How Long It Takes

You can complete the full route in one or two days, depending on your pace and how much time you want to spend along the way. We personally did the half route, cycling to Setoda Port before taking a ferry back to Onomichi. Most cyclists completing the full route will stop in Setoda and spend the night there before continuing toward Imabari the following day.

Whether You Need to Be an Experienced Cyclist

If you will do the full 70km route, we recommend that you be at least moderately experienced in cycling. We only cycle casually, and after the 35km (half the route), our butts were pretty sore.

Bike Rental

We rented our bikes from Onomichi Base. You can rent regular bicycles or E-assisted bikes. If you’re not experienced, we highly recommend renting E-assisted bikes, since the uphills to the bridges are pretty challenging. If you don’t want to ride alone and prefer a more casual ride, you can also choose a 1-day cycling tour with a guide.

The Scenery and Islands

We’ll be completely honest. We were somewhat disappointed by the scenery and landscape along the route. We expected it to take us through more local villages and stunning coastal scenery, but in our experience, we often found ourselves cycling through industrial areas and past factories. The scenery also became a bit repetitive at times.

With that said, this is just our personal experience. When we spoke to other cyclists who had done the route, many of them seemed to have really enjoyed the scenery, so this may come down to expectations and personal preference.

Whether You Should Cycle One Way or Return

For most casual cyclists, we would recommend cycling halfway and stopping in Setoda port to take the ferry back to Onomichi.

How Long Do You Need in Onomichi?

We ended up spending 2 nights in Onomichi and enjoyed our time there overall. One day, we cycled the Shimanami Kaido route, and the other day we explored the charming alleys and Sekouji Temple. You can also visit Onomichi as a day trip from Hiroshima, but the round trip takes about 3-4 hours.

Here are our recommendations for how long to stay in Onomichi based on your interests:

• 1 day: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
• 2 days: Exploring the Onomichi town + cycling
• 3+ days: Add Okunoshima/Takehara or more of the Shimanami Kaido

Reasons to Visit Onomichi

Next, we’ll dive into the reasons to visit, followed by the reasons you may want to skip Onomichi. In our experience, there are pros and cons, and depending on the type of experience you’re looking for, Onomichi may be a great fit.

Charming, old-fashioned atmosphere: One thing we really enjoyed was the town’s old-fashioned, relaxing atmosphere. Strolling along the waterfront, you’ll feel that there’s a peaceful calm, with the sea and surrounding nature adding to the charm. It will remind you of a day trip to Miyajima Island, except without the crowds!

Much quieter than Japan’s major tourist destinations: Onomichi may be right for you if you’re looking for a place to slow down. This can be both a positive and a negative. We personally enjoyed the tranquility, but at times even the main Hondori Shopping Street was almost completely empty, with most shops closed. It was a little TOO quiet for our tastes.

Base for the Shimanami Kaido: We’ve shared our thoughts on the Shimanami Kaido above, and if you’ve decided to cycle the route, that’s definitely a big reason to visit Onomichi. The town is the gateway to the cycling route and serves as a convenient place to rest before or after your ride.

Reasons Not to Visit Onomichi

Next, we’ll share some main reasons Onomichi may not be right for you, based on our personal experience there.

Not the easiest to get to with connections: Although Onomichi is located not too far from Hiroshima, it’s not the easiest place to reach. Shin-Onomichi Station, which connects to the Shinkansen, is about a 20- to 30-minute bus ride from downtown Onomichi. Onomichi Station and Shin-Onomichi Station are two different locations.

For this reason, reaching Onomichi will usually require taking a bus after arriving at Shin-Onomichi Station, or switching trains at Fukuyama Station and continuing to Onomichi Station.

Very quiet town: As mentioned above, the town’s tranquility can be both a positive and a negative. We personally found it a little too quiet at times, with many shops closed and some streets feeling almost empty, even during the day.

Not much to do beyond the Shimanami Kaido: We’ve shared our list of things to do above, and although there are several different experiences to enjoy, most can be completed in a single day. The main attractions are also relatively close together, so there isn’t much to keep you occupied if you’re staying for several days, especially if you’re not planning to cycle the Shimanami Kaido.

So, Is Onomichi Worth Visiting?

If you’re looking for another major Japanese city packed with attractions, Onomichi probably isn’t worth the trip. But if you enjoy slower-paced towns, wandering old streets, temples, cycling, and a glimpse of a quieter side of Japan, Onomichi can be a worthwhile addition to your Hiroshima itinerary. We personally enjoyed our time in Onomichi and felt like it was a nice place to take a break and recharge surrounded by nature. But after two nights, we were ready to move on and explore some of Japan’s more exciting destinations!