Since moving to France and exploring in-depth, I’ve developed a serious crush on one particular city outside of Paris… and that’s Lyon. The food capital of France. It started the first time I visited, and it hasn’t yet worn off.

Lyon is France’s third-largest city, the undisputed food capital of the country, and one of those rare places that still feels small, local, and walkable. The old town is UNESCO-listed, the bouchons are incredible, and the city has a Mediterranean/Portuguese feel.

Most people who visit Lyon the first time don’t stay long enough. In my opinion, two days is the minimum time you need to see Lyon properly and enjoy the food scene. Here is exactly how I’d spend them.

Day 1 – Fourvière, Vieux-Lyon, & a Bouchon

Start your first morning early at the top of Fourvière hill overlooking the city. Here you’ll find the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière with sweeping views of Lyon – the two rivers that separate the city- and you can see the Alps on a clear day.

There are two ways to reach the top. You can walk, which takes about 20-30 minutes (the hill is steep, so beware), or you can rent an electric bike – which is what I did. Once you reach the top, you can enter the Basilica for free to have a look around. At the top, you’ll also see Roman ruins and a museum you can enter.

From Fourvière, walk down through Vieux-Lyon (Lyon’s old town) – one of the largest Renaissance districts in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The streets are cobblestone, the facades are warm and terracotta, and the traboules – hidden, covered walkways – cut through buildings, making you feel as though you’re moving through the city in a secretive way. (Similar to how the French people moved through Lyon during the French Resistance during WWII). Just make sure to stop into Cigoire while exploring! It’s my favorite little shop for gifts and Lyon-made products.

For lunch, I recommend Micro Sillon – a natural wine bar and wine shop in the heart of Lyon with incredible food. It’s the perfect place to sit outside on the terrace on a nice day, but it’s away from the tourist center.

After lunch, head to Parc de la Tête d’Or – one of the largest urban parks in France. It’s free to enter and has a large lake where you can rent a rowboat. If you rented an electric bike earlier, this is also a great place to take it, as there are tons of bike paths through the park.

In the evening, start with cocktails at L’Antiquaire and head to dinner at Le Poelon d’Or, my personal favorite bouchon in the city. Here you’ll notice traditional Lyonnaise cuisine – andouillette, quenelles, and, of course, salade lyonnaise. With checkered tablecloths, a chalkboard menu, and carafe wine, you can’t go wrong. Just make sure to book in advance!

A Note on Bouchons

A bouchon is Lyon’s version of a bistro. The interior is always the same – small, intimate, usually with checked tablecloths, paper napkins, and handwritten menus. The cooking is hearty and generous, with a philosophy of abundance over refinement. Every single walking food tour in Lyon will stop at least once at a bouchon so you can sample a dish.

Dishes to familiarize yourself with include salade lyonnaise – a classic starter of frisée lettuce, lardon, a poached egg, and croutons in a warm vinaigrette. Then you have quenelle (my personal favorite dish) – a dumpling made from pike fish, served in a rich cream sauce. And you can’t miss cervelle de canut, which is a cheese dip with shallots, herbs, olive oil, and vinegar.

Day 2 – Croix-Rousse, the Presqu’île, & More Bouchons

Start day 2 in Croix-Rousse – the neighborhood on the hill above the Presqu’île that is, in my opinion, the most local-feeling neighborhood in the city. Historically, this was the silk weavers’ district, and the buildings’ high windows and ceilings were designed to let in the light needed for weaving. Today it’s a neighborhood of artists, independent shops, and morning markets.

The Croix-Rousse market runs every morning except for Monday and is one of the best daily markets in France. You’ll notice fresh produce, local cheese, charcuterie, flowers- all of the best parts of France.

Once you’re done walking through the neighborhood, stop at the Mill Factory for coffee and pastries. (I don’t recommend this spot for food other than the pastries displayed).

For lunch, visit Le Mercière on the famous rue Mercière (rue is street in French). This is one of the most atmospheric restaurant streets in the city, and Le Mercière is one of the best bouchons. As always, make reservations in advance.

Spend the rest of the afternoon on the Presqu’île, Lyon’s central peninsula between the Rhône and Saône rivers. Here you can walk through Place Bellecour – one of the largest open squares in France with tons of great shopping and cafes. I’d also recommend Musée des Beaux-Arts on Place des Terreaux if you’re interested in art. This museum is one of the best fine arts museums outside of Paris, housed in a 17th-century former convent.

And of course, you’ll want to end your second night in Lyon at another bouchon. Au Petit Bouchon Chez Georges or Bouchon Tupin. I would highly recommend either choice.

Where to Stay in Lyon

When I visited Lyon, I stayed at Cour des Loges – a Radisson Collection property set within four interconnected Renaissance mansions in the heart of old-town Lyon. The hotel is great, with a spa, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a central location.

Another great option is InterContinental Lyon Hôtel-Dieu – a former 18th-century hospital on the banks of the Rhône. Or Villa Florentine on the Fourvière hillside, which has some of the best views of any hotel in the city. For more hotel recommendations or help building a full itinerary, I plan custom France travel experiences through my travel planning service, In France.

How to Get to Lyon

France’s high-speed rail service, the TGV, can take you from Paris Gare de Lyon to Lyon in about two hours and drop you directly in Lyon. It’s by far the easiest and best way to get to Lyon. However, if you’re planning a larger trip through the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, I’d also recommend adding a weekend in Annecy, which you can reach by train in about 1.5 hours.

Best Time to Visit Lyon

The good news is that you can visit Lyon year-round. Unlike other parts of France, there’s really no “bad” time to visit. That said, here are my personal recommendations by season.

Spring (April and May) and fall (September and October) are the sweet spots and the months I’d recommend first. The weather is mild, the city feels local, and the restaurant terraces are open (without the summer heat). I’ve visited Lyon twice, once in May and once in July, and I have to say May was the perfect time to be in the city.

Summer in Lyon is also great, and June is excellent. Warm, long days; the city is lively. In July and August, you’ll notice more tourists, and the heat can get pretty intense. However, unlike Paris, Lyon doesn’t empty out in August, and most of the bouchons stay open – which is the most important thing.

Winter in Lyon is pretty underrated. You still have the incredible food scene, and the bouchons are great for when it’s cold outside. In December you get the Fête des Lumières – the Festival of Lights – which is one of the best events in France. If you can plan a trip around this time, I’d highly recommend it.

As you can see, Lyon is one of my favorite cities in France, and I highly recommend it if you’re looking for a city break outside of Paris. It’s lively, beautiful, and most importantly… delicious. Two days is enough to fall in love with the city and plan to return.